Unclimbed No More: Ladakhi Guides Summit Three 6000m Peaks in Kargyam

On 01 July 2025, a remarkable milestone was achieved in the high-altitude wilderness of Eastern Ladakh. A team of four dedicated mountain guides from the Ladakh Mountain Guide Association (LMGA) completed the first recorded ascent of three previously unclimbed 6000+ meter peaks in the Kargyam region of Lalok, nestled deep within the dramatic Changthang Plateau.

This region, known for its stark beauty, cold desert landscape, and remote Himalayan ridgelines, is rarely visited by climbers due to its remoteness and logistical complexity. However, this pioneering effort by LMGA now brings new attention to Kargyam’s potential as a climbing and adventure tourism destination.

A Technical Climb into the Unknown

The LMGA expedition, led by Dorjee Tondup, along with team members Stanzin Wangial, Phuntsog Namgyal, and Jigmat Stanzin, successfully summited three virgin peaks—now identified at altitudes of 6205m, 6181m, and 6169m. Their ascent involved a range of advanced alpine techniques: glacier travel, corniced ridgelines, snow and ice climbing, short-roping, and multi-pitch rappelling.

Despite the challenging conditions, the team demonstrated the world-class skills that Ladakh’s guides possess, navigating terrain that had never before been explored or mapped for mountaineering purposes.

Mapping New Objectives

The summits lie along a remote ridge accessible through two main approach routes:

• Tukla → Chhibra → Khera Pullu – Gorlung → Peaks
• Shara → Shachukul → Chhibra → Peaks

These approaches traverse high-altitude valleys, glacial moraines, and scree slopes, eventually giving way to steep snowfields and sharp ridgelines. Each route offers its own adventure and could become a future training ground for aspiring Ladakhi mountaineers.

Peak Coordinates:

• Peak 1 (6205m): 33°49’55.99”N, 78°16’22.02”E
• Peak 2 (6181m): 33°49’51.55”N, 78°16’13.10”E
• Peak 3 (6169m): 33°49’30.11”N, 78°16’12.12”E

Interestingly, one of the peaks was identified as highly suitable for beginner climbers, making it an ideal candidate for future adventure tourism initiatives and alpine training programs. This reinforces LMGA’s commitment to not only conquering new heights but also opening up safe and responsible access to the mountains.

Next Steps: Naming and Recognition

The expedition is now undergoing official documentation and validation under the Unclimbed Peak Naming Guidelines set by UT Ladakh. Once processed, these mountains will be recorded as the first officially climbed 6000ers in this particular region of Changthang—cementing the team’s place in Ladakh’s mountaineering history.

A Message of Inspiration

LMGA’s first ascent is more than a technical achievement—it is a symbol of local expertise, perseverance, and pride in Ladakh’s mountainous heritage. It highlights the potential of Ladakhi guides to lead world-class expeditions and promotes homegrown Himalayan exploration rooted in sustainability and local knowledge.

This success story will surely inspire the next generation of mountain professionals and reinforce LMGA’s role in guiding Ladakh’s adventure tourism future.

Let us explore responsibly, climb with purpose, and celebrate the extraordinary landscapes of our Himalayan home.

– Ladakh Mountain Guide Association (LMGA)

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